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04.08.01: Les Cent Kilos, rue de la Folie Méricourt / rue St. Ambroise I was beginning to think it was all a sham, this idea of the great summer exodus that left Paris a ghost town in the summer. Into July I had noticed almost no difference in the level of activity anywhere in town. Only the signs on the cafés and boulangeries announcing when their fermeture annuelle would be indicated that something was in the offing. And then came the last weekend in July. Suddenly, as if on a dime, I could ride through the Marais without a single car or pedestrian around. The Fab Four remained busy, but it got otherwise very quiet -- especially in the bicycle shops, which had been closed since Bastille Day, making it quite a chore to get my bike decked out for a trip. I did get my hands on a Cycling France guidebook, which I took to one of the few cafés on my block that hadn't closed, and began planning out a route.
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