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22.06.01: Le 20e Art, rue des Vignoles / passage des Haies He's a storyteller, that Serge, so after having me over for dinner we take a walk through the 20e to ponder what¹s left of an authentically blue-collar neighborhood. It's not so much that it's no longer blue-collar, but rather like the 13e, the architecture hasn't reflected it for a while now. In fact it doesn't reflect much of anything other than rampantly ugly urban planning. The "proletarian" bars and tiny épiceries do remain, however, and although this café is far from a hole in the wall, it has a very village-y quality that you often find in the outer edges of intramuros Paris. Serge is totally taken by it, enough to stop for a drink -- though I'll bet he's still not gone back.
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