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05.08.01: Le Royal Turenne, rue de Turenne / rue des Francs Bourgeois
Paris will surprise you sometimes - not in any grand way, but by something like a hokey, imporomtu dixie band playing just off the ultra-swank (and still peopled) Place des Vosges. This was enough to make the usual "where do I want to have stopped for a coffee" decision very simple, although I'd have wound up here eventually, since the aquamarine paint on this place appeared in front of me before the turn onto the rue de Turenne. There's nothing quite like riding full-throttle along the rue des Francs Bourgeois, a street that probably combines the feelings of elegance and constriction better than most in Paris. The traffic flows just so, down a very well-defined single lane that has the cyclist nearly taking out the side-view mirror of every other car. But it's all worth it if you get to suck wind from a citybuses with the passengers on the open "back patio" trying hard not to notice you.

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