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26.03.01: Le Petit Château d'Eau, rue du Château d'Eau / rue Lucien Sampaix
In some ways, for some of us, the café in France substitutes for the diner in terms of a space to mull in. Although the décor of most cafés is miles away more enticing than that of your average diner, they tend to lack one desirable element: booths. This initimate palce, however, a block away from Yiddish, fits the bill. The odd green-and-brass colour scheme actually works well, and the regulars at the bar are subdued and friendly. The dixième tends to be suffocating, but this end of a perpetually congested street seems strangely clam and airy.

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