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31.01.02: Les Ateliers, rue de Lyon / avenue Daumesnil
Still can't make up my mind about an Italian itinerary. You see, what makes it the ideal time to travel -- super-low season for toutism -- also makes it the ideal time to stay in Paris, especially since the weather in northern Italy is pretty much as wet and gray as it is here. It sure made sense to put off Lisbon and Madrid until spring. In the meantime, with Paris at its low tourist ebb, areas of town like the 12e are placid as can be. This stretch of Dausmesnil is overlooked by the Promenade Plantée, the former urban train tracks converted to greenspace and the spaces below into a series of "workshops" that evoke Pier 1 more than anything really artisitc. At least there's a café open and devoid of action, just right to mull it all over at.

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