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27.11.01: Le Nordsud, rue Ordener / rue du Mont Cenis The 18e may be dominated by Montmartre, but that kind of identification may also be what allows its other neighbourhoods to maintain a flavour of opposition to it. The bikerides home from Clichy gave me some great opportunities to wander through some understated areas between the northern slopes of Montmartre and the zone where the périphérique impinges. This café may not have been the most understated choice, but it was less intimidating that some of the very local joints on the surroundings streets. On a curious footnote, I made it home just in time to catch Kandahar at Le Bastille -- so apropos -- and I could even follow bits of the Pashto dialogue. Not enough to get back to Persian, though.
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